Aluminum tube and square

diy 80% ar-15 odd equation or gunsmitning fun? part 3: in parts 1 and 2 (3/20, 4/20 issues), matthews showed how to make a traditional aluminum ar receiver. this time, he takes on the challenge of plastic receivers.

by:AAG     2020-11-03
Traditional gun materials like steel and aluminum are increasingly being replaced by modern polymers.
Today\'s plastic miracle gun runs almost flawlessly, so I don\'t think you can argue with success.
Although I\'m not a huge fan of polymer guns.
I do have some features in my collection that are close-perfection.
I have an AR-in addition to a couple of Glocks and Kahrs-15 in .
22 I made a long rifle with the parts of the receiver on the polymer and the lower receiver.
It fired thousands of bullets, with few glitches.
In addition to being powerful, it is also very light on the 4 th. 5 pounds.
Today, the polymer is in AR-
15 mar ket, there are several brands in production using polymer low receiver.
There is even a polymer upper.
The jury still has no decision as to whether this is a good idea.
Because it will take a few years to determine thesepolymer AR-
Like the metal version, 15 guns will remain for decades.
I saw a picture of polymer AR on the Internet.
The takeover failed dramatically by dividing into many parts.
On the contrary, I also read the report of polymer AR-
15 owners reported that thousands of owners were fired without any problems.
While there are dozens of aluminum 80% receivers on the market, amateurs can only use a small number of polymer 80% arrecivers.
An Internet search led me to a company called Polymer 80. www. polymer80. com).
Polymer 80 is a new company that has just started producing polymer AR. 15 80% receiver.
In fact, when I first went through their website a few months ago, they haven\'t produced a single for the public.
They are still in the prototype phase at this point, so I have to keep track of their progress over the past few months.
I had several conversations with the owner David Boggs and he convinced me that they were very interested in delivering quality products to guns --
Architecture lovers.
The launch date of the product has been delayed several times until the product meets his quality standards.
Instead of rushing the product to market in a recent purchase process to make a profit.
The polymer 80 waits until the product meets their standards before it is released to the public.
Finally in October of 2013 they start to customers, sending products.
It seems worth waiting.
Space doesn\'t allow me to make a big fuss here, so I\'m going to recommend readers to the Polymer 80 website.
You will find out there-
Depth information of the product.
I looked at several other brands and picked one that looked beautiful.
When I contacted the manufacturer to provide a product, he said he was not interested in being reported on SGN, so I would call it \"Brand X \".
There is no brand name on this receiver, so I won\'t hide anything.
I will only use the brand X receiver as it is very similar to several other fixtures
There are less than 80% polymer receivers on the market.
In fact, I think the other few receivers I see online are just receivers that other companies are selling.
I have no financial interest in promoting this product: I just use it to show my readers that they can do 80% AR-
There is no receiver for fixtures or fixtures at all.
Still, let\'s go back to the question of how to build an aggregate receiver.
Polymer 80 is a new product of AR-
15 mar ket and made of what they call proprietary polymers, especially suitable for AR-15 receiver.
As you might guess, the basic price for the polymer 80 receiver is $80.
An upgrade in color and graphics is an additional fee.
My basic black receiver has a finish with fine texture so it doesn\'t look like cheap shiny plastic.
As usual, you have to clean up the cavity of the fire fighting components and drill holes for Hammer pins, trigger pins and safety rods.
Polymer 80 receiver is being injected-
Mold, you can see that there is a very thin line between half of the mold.
The part in the receiver that needs to be machined to create the shell for fire croup is red, so you can use the color as a guide to removing the material.
Material removal can also be determined by measuring or using a polymer 80 to complete the fixture.
The style of the polymer 80 receiver is different from that of GI-formatAR-15 receiver.
The most striking is the look of the magazine and the complete trigger shield.
The upper side of the receiver also has a reinforced ridge structure.
The front pivot pin area and buffer tube are thicker than the aluminum receiver.
A very popular modification involves grip screws.
Instead of forming a very thin thread in a soft polymer, this receiver has a small steel nut in a pocket.
Steel grip screws engage with steel nuts, reducing the risk of even a little ofover stripping soft polymer threadstightening.
When you pick up the polymer AR-
You will immediately notice the main benefit of it: it is as light as a feather.
Once processed, the MyPolymer 80 receiver weighs 110g (about 3. 5 ounces)
About 260 grams (about 8. 5 ounces)for a GI-
Format of aluminum receiver.
In order to determine the correct position of the machining cavity and drilling holes, the polymer 80 provides a well
Complete fixture design.
This fixture, including tooling, costs only $20.
I don\'t know how polymer 80 can only sell for $20 with tools (
Three drill bits, one vertical mill and one stop loop)!
The fixture itself is injected by two pieces-
Molded Plastic completely around the receiver.
The side of the fixture has partial holes that provide the precise position of the hammer pin, trigger pin, and safety rod hole.
There are five holes on the top of the fixture, starting to form a cavity for the fire fighting group.
Later, I will give a brief introduction to the process used to complete the cavity.
It is not obvious how it is used to form a cavity.
This is because this fixture is a sacrifice fixture.
During the processing, part of the fixture is processed.
What you see at the beginning is not what you see at the end.
Since part of the fixture is sacrificed, it should be considered as a whole
Use the product, although some fixtures can be re-
For other projects.
Considering the low cost of $20, one-time use is not a big problem.
Once you know how the polymer 80 receivers and fixtures work, they are very easy to use.
Very well written.
Depth instructions are available through the polymer 80 website.
The instructions list three different ways to complete one of the polymer 80 receivers.
In this article, I will introduce two of these processes.
The process of completing the Brand X receiver is different from that of the polymer 80 product.
The brand X receiver is a \"fixture-less\" receiver.
It is done without using any fixtures or fixtures, although one can use the fixtures of some other bankruptcy management manufacturer.
The brand X receiver is molded from a black polymer with a slightly textured finish.
This receiver is closer to the appearance of the GI format aluminum receiver.
The only place it looks to be strengthened or strengthened is around the buffer pipe ring and the front pivot pin area.
It does have some areas with extra material, but it looks like it\'s just a feature of the molding process, not an intent reinforcement.
Trigger guard is indispensable, so with GI-
Trigger protection format.
A good feature found on the Brand X receiver lost on the polymer 80 receiver is that the word safety and fire have been transferred to the surface at the safety bar position.
The bankruptcy management of the X brand looks good.
The polymer is fairly hard and has a good molding effect with no gaps or surface defects.
In order to locate the position of hammer pins, trigger pins and safety rod holes, there are small bumps or stubs on the side of the receiver, which are characterized by the central drilling depression or depression as the starting point of the drilling.
While this is not the most accurate method, it should be enough if you are careful.
However, in order to keep the correct hole liquid, it needs a drilling device.
The cavity position is specified by using a color plug-in molded to the receiver.
This is similar to the polymer 80 receiver, but in this case you can remove the insert material without a fixture.
Using this method, the builder\'s skill will have a greater impact on the work done compared to using the fixture.
Insert can be removed using multiple methods.
This can be done with ii1ling machines, drilling machines, Dre-met Moto-
Tools, even things as rough as files and chisels.
Very short instructions (
Less than half a typing page)
This is recommended by Brand X receiver using drill press and Composite Cross
Remove the feed vise inserted into the material.
Later, I\'ll give a brief introduction to the method I used to complete the Brand X receiver to a reasonable level of accuracy.
Both the polymer 80 and the brand X receiver can be done in a number of ways.
You can carve them exactly or roughly like a Aviary!
If you are proud of your work and pay attention to the details, even the roughest method can achieve good results.
Keep in mind that once completed, the gun is a $500 gun and your receiver should be as good as the rest of the project.
While it may seem important, the most important issue is that the gun is safe and functional.
Although the gun can be made with a rough look, it can still work properly and you should try to maintain a good look, good functionality and safety.
I want my project to look and work as much as any factory --made gun.
If you do well, the project cannot be distinguished from the guns made in the factory.
I urge you to make the effort you deserve for this project.
In this article, I will explain how I have completed these project receivers.
If one doesn\'t like my approach, then in any case, make your project the way you want it to be, this is your project.
So let\'s go ahead and finish these receivers.
I finished the polymer 80 receiver first.
I have different methods, so I use different methods on each method.
The Polymer 80 recommends three different methods in their instructions, using a ball machine, using a drilling machine, and finally using basic hand tools.
Call me lazy if you want, but I chose the method of milling machine and drilling machine.
The method of hand tools is feasible, but the labor intensity is very high.
I made the first receiver with the drilling Press method. .
The polymer 80 instructions provided on their website are quite complete (12+ pages)
So I\'m going to give the reader a quick overview here.
First place the receiver into the fixture segment and fix the sections together using the supplied screws.
Then place the fixture on the table of the drill press.
Be sure to make sure the table is exactly the same as the position of the feather pen and drill bit.
Drill six holes into the fixture and drill into the side of the fixture.
Four holes 5/32, two holes 3/8.
Polymer epolymer 80 is recommended to drill holes in full size with the provided drill bit.
I prefer to drill holes in one size and then use a precision cutter to lift them to full diameter for optimal accuracy.
The drill bit is not designed to form a precision hole;
They were considered generals.
The purpose is to make holes.
The drill bit has many times to drill holes that exceed or wider its specified size.
For the most suitable part, I want the dimensions of my holes to be exactly the same.
When you drill, it\'s only about half the hole.
Don\'t try to drill down from one side.
Doing so will almost certainly result in the hole opposite being out of place.
Once the receiver hole is completed, it is time to start forming.
In order to measure the cavity correctly, you need to do some accurate measurements.
Set the depth ring on the supplied end mill to cut the cavity to the specified depth when used with the fixture.
Setting the collar to the depth listed in my instructions does not reach the correct depth on my receiver.
Fortunately, I checked before I tried to form a tooth decay.
Obviously, there is either a typographical error in the instruction or a design change that changes the result somewhere.
It should be number 1. 25\" and .
630 \"deep, so I had to set my collar to create the dimension for this depth, not the dimension listed in the instruction.
Before cutting the cavity, please verify that the settings you are using on the collar cause the correct depth.
Once you have the right size, the fixture will create the right depth in each cavity when the mill is pushed until the collar stops.
After setting the collar to the correct size, you can start cutting the holes at the top of the fixture.
You need to set up the fixture and receiver assembly directly at the intersection
The feed vise and the vise must be firmly fixed on the drill press table.
If you don\'t have everything Square, your receiver wall won\'t be parallel because it cuts at a certain angle when the factory is sent into work.
In the most extreme case, it is not set to a square, you can install a receiver wall of the right thickness on the top, but install a Miller cut on the side of the receiver wall at the bottom.
I will be the first to say this is not the right way to make a receiver.
The drilling machine is not designed to assemble the machine.
This method is a very simple way to make a receiver.
This method is not my method, so don\'t say to me that improper processing method is used.
This is the way recommended in the instructions provided.
I will do better on the next receiver.
The first operation will be to drill holes to form a trigger slot.
The instruction manual says that since this is the finished width of the slot, 5/16 bit is used for this work, but I used a smaller 1/4 bit, so that I can hand the slot later.
Drill holes in the position specified by the fixture, which will create the front and rear edges of the trigger slot.
After machining the cavity, archive the material between the two holes to create the trigger slot.
When drilling these deep holes in the polymer, be sure to clean these deep holes from the drill slot so they don\'t pile up.
If they pile up, they create friction that melts the side of the hole.
Now is the time to start cutting the cavity.
The end mill you set up with the retaining ring will allow you to feed it into the fixture and receiver and eventually have a flat bottom on the cavity.
Put the final grinding disc into the drill plate and insert it into the receiver and fixture.
I have to say again, I know this is not the recommended way to do the job, but this is the way that instructions say to do it.
The end mill is fed into several holes at the top of the fixture to produce holes in the correct depth.
Then move the fixture slightly and run the mill down again.
This will produce oval holes that will be the front and back of the cavity.
You will use the mill to make four oval holes and a circular one.
Make absolutely sure you \'ve done this part of the work before proceeding.
For your convenience in accessing and viewing the work area, cut off the top of the fixture at the lines marked above.
I cut off my car with a hacksaw, but you can also grind it down as you have the fixture installed across the streetfeed vise.
Now the rest of the cavity is cut.
The front cavity is 1.
25 inch deep, back. 630\" deep.
You should try to stay nearby.
010 of these sizes \".
You need to set the depth stop on your drill bit to keep the depth of the mill cut the same as the holes previously formed.
You have two options to remove the rest of the material.
You can cut it down, dip the mill into the work, then pull it up, move the work a little, and then fall down.
You can do this over and over until you remove the entire color insert.
Rough edges can be smoothed by sanding or filing.
Another way is to tilt the mill down to the appropriate depth and then slowly move the workpiece with the cross line
Feeding vise can cut the material like using a milling machine.
This will provide a smoothie wall that does not have to be archived or polished.
Removing all color plugins should give you a space of the right size.
I prefer to measure my tooth decay.
For those of you who need to measure, I will give you some rough measurements.
The big cavity in front should start.
100 behind the bolt holding slot \"-open lever.
If you go.
100 \", you risk cutting into the magazine spring cavity.
Width should be from. 690\" to . 700\".
The length can be right to the end of the color plug-in.
The rear cavity is small. 500\" to .
510 wide \", extending from the front cavity to the left and right. 085--.
095 \"from the buffer tent hole.
There is a narrower section above the safety rod hole, which is about. 420\" wide.
If you cut the hole wider than it
510 \", the installation of your receiver may be sloppy.
After cutting the front and rear cavity, you need to deepen the front of the rear cavity to make it the same depth (1. 25 inches)
As the front cavity.
This deeper part extends the front cavity to the left and right.
100 \"behind the safety rod hole \".
Once all the cavities are cut to the right size, expand the edges and archive the rest of the trigger slot.
After the formation of my cave, I installed a fire team and made sure everything was OK.
As long as the distance between the hammer and the trigger pin hole is appropriate, there should be no problem with the fire control group function.
You need to verify your discussion.
The netor function is normal and the trigger engages the hammer correctly.
The only work left is to work on The Bolt fixtureopen device.
The BHO lever polymer 80 does not use the GI method using a rolling pin of 3/32, but instead uses a short pin in a blind hole retained by a small screw.
This very small thread (5-40)
The screws must be cut by the builder.
I think the difficulty of going through this hole means that the polymer 80 should do this in the factory.
This hole is an awkward place for amateurs.
Because I don\'t have a very small tap extension.
I had to put the tap into the hole very slowly with a pair of miniature taps
Nose pliers, not the best way to operate the faucet!
The set screw does not go deep into the hole, so it is threaded only a few laps deep.
Use some thread lockers on the fixing screws and do not over tighten the threads, otherwise it is possible for you to peel off the polymer threads.
I mentioned earlier that I used a different method on another receiver.
My second receiver was done using a milling machine, which made the work easier and faster.
While I did use the polymer 80 fixture, I used it in my own way, which did speed up the build process.
I \'ve worked on a dozen other AR\'s before-
I have 5 receivers so I am very familiar with this method.
Thanks to the excellent design of the polymer 80 completion fixture, a hammer, trigger and safety hole can be drilled in just a few minutes.
There is no easier way to dig holes, so I just used the same method as before to form holes.
_ Now it will be a simple job if you use a milling machine.
This method allows you to complete the cave in less than 30 minutes.
First, set the receiver (
Installed in polymer 80 fixture)
In your Mill vise.
It must be set precisely to a square and aligned with the x and y axis.
Then cut off the top of the fixture with a saw or mill, so that you can fully open the top of the receiver and be accessible.
Then I installed a 3/8 long vertical mill in quill.
I let quill depth stop so I can drop the mill down to the depth of 1. 250 inches.
Please note here that you do not have to go completely deep at a time;
You can go deep in stages if you want.
The larger forward will now be roughly cut to the right size.
For a initially rough size cavity, I just keep it good on the edge of the color plug-in.
I just went deep into the center cutting mill and ran them on the edges to cut out the cavity.
Polymer cutting is very easy, so the work is done soon.
By measuring, I finish the cavity to the exact size.
My cavity was . 695\" wide by 2. 050\" long.
The chamber is between the receiver walls so that when done, the thickness on the wall is equal.
The front of the cavity is positioned.
100 back from the slot held by the bolt \"-open lever.
You need at least one.
There is a 100 thick wall in front of the cavity to prevent machining into the groove of the magazine spring.
If you are in.
080 \"wall, you will most likely have a hole in the wall in the front cavity.
This will not ruin the project, but have an \"extra --hole.
Then cut the rear cavity into depth. 625\". It will be. 500-.
510 \"wide, it will only be there except for the safety rod hole. 430\" wide.
The rear cavity extends from the front cavity to the fine cavity. 075-.
085 of buffer de\"tent hole.
The exact size of the part on the safety hole doesn\'t matter, I\'m just a bit wider than the 3/8 safety rod hole.
At the junction of the front and rear cavities, a narrow rear cavity needs to be deepened in order to be the same as the depth of the front cavity (1. 25 inches).
This is the gap used at the back of the trigger.
The deeper part follows the shape of the rear cavity you have cut.
The deeper part extends from the front cavity to the left and right. 100\"--.
Safety rod hole 125 \"past.
Length is not important.
The rest is to cut off the trigger slot.
If you cut your cavity into the right size, these provided dimensions will bring you close to the right size.
I would suggest cutting significantly in case of insufficient size, then opening the slot to the final size by hand.
The slot will be. 280-.
The width is 310 \"depending on the width of a specific trigger \".
My position is at one point.
660 back from the front receiving wall.
The slot will then run to 1. 187 inches.
This covers almost the milling method of starting the 80% receiver.
Once you are familiar with the process, you should be able-
Use the amilling machine for 30 minutes.
Of course, you can cut the whole cavity by hand.
If you don\'t mind the tedious labor, you don\'t have anything but manual tools.
Obviously, it takes a few hours compared to 30 minutes for the milling machine.
It\'s time to make a premium but uncooperative X brand receiver.
Because there are several retailers selling this fixture.
I really want to add less than 80% receivers to this article. The jig-
As long as you have the tools and skills to complete the receiver, fewer options can reduce the cost to the lowest possible level.
This fixture-
Fewer receivers are best suited for enthusiasts who are familiar with making their own gun parts.
The instructions that came with the brand X receiver were very short and typed less than half a page.
They think you are well aware of the general idea here and will not involve much detail.
If you have built a 80% receiver belbre, you should not have any problems with the brand X type, but I don\'t think this is the best for novice receiver manufacturers with limited processing skills
A good drill press and a composite cross drill are recommended in the instructions.
Feedvise, one long and two
Flute 3/8 \"Vertical Grinding, 5/32\", 5/16 \", 3/8\" drill bits, various hand tools such as documents, measuring tools, and other tools in the home workshop.
First, drill 5/32 and 3/8 holes on the receiver wall.
To eliminate the need for fixture positioning holes, the brand xincer has small stubs or bumps on the side of the connector.
There are shallow dimples on these surfaces, which will allow the adril drill bit to be centered around the bumps.
They are basically the center drill point that is molded, not the one that is drilled out.
In order to take advantage of these center drilling positions, the square of the receiver must be set on the drill press table.
The irregular-shaped receiver must have some type of support block between the table and the receiver to keep it straight.
I used an aluminum flat sofa to support the receiver.
The bumps that must be on the receiver will prevent it from doing relief cutting where it lies flat.
I made the support plates for each side and then bolted through the remove pin holes and plates to fix them on the receiver.
In addition to supporting receivers for drilling, these plates allow the receiver to be clamped in the vise while machining the parts.
To drill holes accurately, drill holes in stages.
You may be able to drill 5/32 holes at a time, but trying to drill 3/8 holes with one bit will almost certainly cause the bit to go off track.
This will create holes far away from where they need to be.
Once I have my receiver propped up, lie flat in front of the drill.
I made the first hole with a small center drill.
Make sure the drill bit you use is drilled in the manufacturing center at 5/32 \"size.
Center drill all holes on both sides.
Note that the precise positioning of these center holes will determine the accuracy of the following holes, as the larger bit will follow the existing holes.
Now that there is a shallow center drilling hole in each location, you can start drilling the hole to the final size.
I used a few thousand parts below 5/32 to drill the hammer and trigger pin holes.
Then I renamed them full size (. 156\").
After completing these holes, I went on to drill the Big Hole device until I used \"U \"(. 368\")drill.
The hole is then re-divided into the final size. 375\".
When drilling on the side of the receiver, resist the temptation to try to drill both sides simultaneously from one side.
Each side should be drilled separately.
If you are trying to drill past one side, it is very likely that your drill will drill out from a distance.
For one reason, the position of the hole is marked on both sides by the manufacturer, and this reason is accurate.
Now that drilling is done, start working on the cavity.
The brand X receiver features a color plug-in that marks the location of the material that needs to be removed.
In principle, in order for the cavity to reach the correct size, you just need to remove the color plug-in.
While this will definitely work, I still prefer to measure the cavity for the most precise fit of the part.
If you don\'t mind the amount of labor you need, just-
Cut White with Dremel tools or basic hand tools such as files, knives, chisels, sandpaper, etc.
The recommended method in the instructions is to use cross
Feeding vise and drill press used to remove inserts.
Set receiver directly in composite crossover
The feeding vise is firmly clamped on the drill press table.
You will need to use the previously made support plate to clip the irregular-shaped receiver into the claws of the vise.
The workpiece and the vise need to be fixed very closely, because there is a lot of vibration when the material is removed.
The drill press is not made for milling, and it may vibrate a lot because the goose hair in the drill press is not particularly tight.
This drilling Press method is actually a simple milling machine, but since it is made with tools that are not made for work, it does not work like a milling machine.
Pay special attention to setting up the receiver directly in the vise.
If the settings are not completely correct, it is possible for you to create a Bankruptcy Management wall that is not parallel and straight.
In extreme cases, you can let the receiver wall have the right thickness at the top, but let the machine go through the side of the wall at the bottom.
Once the receiver is set up correctly, you can start to form the front cavity.
You need a very long center. cutting two-flute end mill.
The A7/16 \"or 3/8\" factory will work for this.
Smaller factories will produce closer products.
Into your tooth decay
I use 3/8 of the mill.
You need to use the end mill cut by the center (
Cut edgesall through the face)
Create a flat bottom of the cavity.
The front cavity will be cut to the depth of 1. 25 inches.
Set a stop on your drill press quill to stop cutting at this depth of the receiver.
To verify that your depth is correct, you may want to mark the mill with a black mark or tape at 1. 25-inch dimension.
After you have set the depth, you can now start inserting the grinder into the colored plug-in.
To carve out the cavity, you just plug the mill into the plug-in over and over until you remove it all.
After each cut you move them over: the smaller the move, the smoother the wall will be.
The polymer is fairly soft, so you can remove a lot of material during each cut.
If you have a very solid setup and have a adril press that runs very tightly, you can move the feeder inside the cavity by dropping the mill to full depth and then using the vise, just like using a milling machine.
If you set everything up and you move the artifacts fairly slowly, this will give you the best possible finish.
Although the cavity can be made by removing the color plug-in, I prefer to make my cavity by measuring it.
The front cavity begins.
100 \"after Bolt holding slot \"-open lever.
You need at least one front wall.
080 \"thick to prevent the magazine spring passing through the wall from being machined into the groove.
The approximate length of the front cavity is 2. 050 inches (
Or the end of the color insert)
The width is. 695\".
Cavity should be centered to produce equal thickness on the receiver wall.
The rear cavity is. 6,25\" deep.
You use the same method as the front cavity to form it, or move down or down, and then move the workpiece under the cutter.
You can cut the insert or measure it. The cavity is . 500--.
510 \"wide, except on the hole of the safety Rod. 430\" wide.
The cavity extends from the front cavity to the left and right.
075 \"buffer brake holes from the rear of the receiver.
Once you have the right size, a part of it needs to be deepened.
From the front cavity to the left. 100.
125 \"behind the safety rod hole needs to be deepened to 1. 25 inches (
Same depth as the front cavity).
The depth section just follows the shape of the existing cavity.
The purpose of this deeper part is to trigger the gap.
The rest is to cut off the trigger slot.
On the brand xincer, there is a small square hole, roughly the midpoint of the trigger slot at the bottom of the receiver.
I did not mention the size of the trigger slot.
So I got the dimensions from other receivers.
I will give these dimensions but use them as a rough guide.
It\'s over in about a minute. 300--.
310 \"wide. 700\" long.
The slot will start 5/8 back from the front cavity wall.
I marked this dimension on my receiver and then removed part of it to reduce the archiving I need to do to complete it.
I recommend reducing the slot size and then installing it by hand to best fit your specific trigger.
Once I cut the slot to the size, I installed a fire control group and verified that it was working fine.
Since Brand X does not want to be included in my article, I will not recommend it to my readers.
Take this review as an overview of how to build this type of 80% receiver.
Several receivers like this have been sold by many AR
There are 15 accessories suppliers. If a jig-
Less recipients attract you and search for one.
This special receiver is very good and looks like a high quality product.
I am very happy with the receiver, just very dissatisfied with the company\'s attitude towards using it in my article.
Overall I am very happy with my experience in building polymer 80% AR15 receivers.
Compared with alumni
Nurn receivers, polymer receivers are very easy to process.
For those who use basic hand tools to complete the cutting, this simple machining will be a real advantage.
Although the polymer is not as strong as aluminum, AR-
The receiver has little pressure. I have an AR-15 in .
22 long rifles, equipped with an upper polymer receiver and a lower polymer receiver, remain in good condition throughout the thousands of rounds fired.
Whether the polymer receiver will hold this well at a higher pressure of emission. 223 Rem.
There are still several rounds to be seen.
The price of ammunition today is very high. I can\'t afford a amulet for sure.
Thousand wheel endurance test of polymer receiver.
Internet chat will show that under the right conditions the polymer receiver AR-15 is OK.
Personally, I will not consider using polymer AR-15 for self-
Defense or combat, but for entertainment purposes, there is no problem using one on gun range.
Polymer receiver AR-
For decades like aluminum?
On this issue, only time will prove that they have not yet had enough time to build a long history.
However, I will have and shoot my polymer AR-
Over the years, 15 guns have been made to find out if they can be in the long run.
Based on my limited experience with aggregate receivers, I think they will remain in good condition for thousands of rounds if they are built and maintained correctly.
Who knows, I never thought a polymer pistol like Glock would be a great gun.
Maybe 20 years later, we\'ll look back and wonder why it took so long to use polymers on AR decades ago15design.
If you finish your own AR-
What you find interesting is, why not give it a try? Polymer AR-
15 receivers and complete fixtures-
Polymer 80, 1250 Karen Street, Vacaville, California, 95688. 70734-0075 or 707-688-3631. www. polymer80. com.
Description: different from the completed AR15 receiver (c. )
, The 80% receiver requires amateur builders to process the cavity for the fire group.
Description: the polymer 80 receiver has an unusual shape. Injection-
Molded polymer allows design to be-
It is forbidden to forge in aluminum.
Description: once two screws have been installed, the receiver is installed in the fixed half part and firmly fixed in the fixing device.
Matthews says the device costs only $20.
Title: The rest is to file the rest of the triggerslot.
The best results will be obtained by hand
Install your own parts on the polymer receiver.
Description: If you have a milling machine, you can cut off the top of the fixture to enter the top of the receiver.
Then grind the car out with a vertical mill.
Description: If you have finished your part and the work is accurate, the firecontrol component should be installed in the receiver cavity with the correct clearance and good functionality.
Description: This \"Brand X\" universal 80% receiver is provided by several AR-
There are 15 accessories suppliers. The \"jig-
\"Less\" design reduces project coststime builder.
Description: the small bumps on the side of the universal 80% receiver will be used to accurately locate the hammer and trigger as well as the holes of the safety Rod.
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